When I started living full time in Thailand’s northern urban darling, it was during COVID, and each soi I turned into held the same eerie hush. Shutters were closed over windows and “traffic” amounted to the echo of an odd car, motorbike, or tuktuk. I half expected to see tumbleweeds rolling down Thapae Road, to... Continue Reading →
Open to More
I spotted this epigram of sorts, “Open to More”, printed on a shop sign when walking from the bus station upon arriving in Pokhara, Nepal back in March. I’d just finished a harrowing nine-hour bus journey from Kathmandu, and was making my way on foot to my guesthouse. Taxis were available, but my legs needed... Continue Reading →
Small psychic risks.
Not all risks involve bungee cords, LSD, Bitcoin—or even poles. Many risks are quiet and internal acts of courage that challenge who we think we are. Like ingrown hairs, they’re intimate—and invisible to (almost) everyone but ourselves. Small psychic risks are the little acts of courage we take to confront our own status quo. From... Continue Reading →
Where the holes are
The Chiang Mai flood of 2024. That’s how we’ll refer to it years from now. It’s making history. And it’s also presenting a bizarre juxtaposition to which I have a good view from where I live. The Ping River broke its banks not once but twice in the past 10 days, flooding streets, homes, markets,... Continue Reading →
Up To You
So long, Bert, my bicycle buddy. I’ve known this Dutch fella for a year now. We met in the Hideout, an awesome little breakfast/lunch spot in old Chiang Mai. I spotted him in cycling garb, ready to brave another fierce climb up the long, steep, and winding road of Chiang Mai’s resident mountain, Doi Suthep.... Continue Reading →
Road Trippin’
There are few things I love as much as I love riding my bike. When I was 8 years old, I’d spend whole summer days riding my bike, making up destinations just to have an excuse to push pedal my way down empty roads spotted with afternoon sun and the promise of something magical. The... Continue Reading →
This Is How Life Gets Done
One of the most prominent questions a long-term traveller has is should I stay or should I go? The Clash had something to say about this. The reality is that we are all long-term travellers, whether we stay in one place our entire lives or move consistently from country to country. No one stays in... Continue Reading →
The People You Meet Abroad: Ms Kerry – Teacher Extraordinaire
Recently, I decided that a great way to spend each birthday is to celebrate someone I aspire to be like. Someone with magic good-person dust, willing to sprinkle it into my needy, greedy palms. So on the eve of 38 (written four long years ago), I salute Ms Kerry and thank her, not just for... Continue Reading →
Backpacking in Laos & THAT Guy on the Bus
Meet Murray Robson.... This guy is a cracker, a loose cannon, a judgemental narcissist and the funniest, most blatantly honest guy I’ve ever met. I met him on my overnight bus from Bangkok to Pakse, Laos and I liked him immediately. His smiley eyes and toothless grin revealed his good intentions and natural roughness. His... Continue Reading →
A Perfect Answer To A Perfect Question
Listen here and please forgive my attempt at basic Thai!! There’s this lovely woman in Chiang Mai who reminds me of a tea cozy. She wears slacks like my grandma did and starched floral blouses, and she has baby-fine salt and pepper hair and friendly eyes looking out of a soft round face. She... Continue Reading →